Few beauty products carry the symbolic charge and power of a red lipstick. It is utterly transformative.
Across time, it has been painted as everything from armour to rebellion, glamour to danger. Scientists say our eyes are wired to notice red: the receptors for it sit at the centre of our vision, where we see most clearly. Biologists add that red stands out in nature as a warning signal. Others argue we link it with danger because it echoes fire and blood.
For centuries, red has been a shorthand for power, rebellion and glamour, too. Wealthy Ancient Egyptians mixed crushed carmine beetles with oils to stain their lips crimson. In Elizabethan England, Queen Elizabeth I (above) painted her mouth with a paste of cochineal and beeswax, signalling both regal dominance and a touch of the supernatural (red lipstick was meant to ward off evil spirits!)
However, it’s also worth remembering that a truly bold red - and visible make-up more broadly - has never just been about aesthetics. Historically, it carried heavy cultural baggage. Red lips were tied to the stage, with actresses and performers relying on strong pigment to project their features under harsh theatre lights. But they were also linked, in the public imagination, to sex work. In the 18th and 19th centuries especially, bright cosmetics were read as markers of immorality, excess, or low class.
A painted mouth could brand a woman as “fallen” just as easily as it could signal glamour. That tension between power and stigma has always clung to red lipstick, which is why wearing it can still feel so bold - it’s loaded with more history than a single swipe might suggest.
By the 20th century, suffragettes wore red lipstick as an act of defiance, claiming a space in public life. During the Second World War, governments even encouraged women to keep wearing red lipstick (above) - Winston Churchill called it “a morale booster” for the troops, although it also was also to signal to the opposition that Britain hadn’t entirely gone to shit, because our women still looked presentable.
It’s no coincidence that every major wave of female liberation has been accompanied either by a red lip, or thoughts on it. As cultural historian Madeleine Marsh puts it: "On one hand, lipstick is always being portrayed as about sexuality, but that strong vein and the power of women and the power of presenting yourself in a strong way is always there, too." By the 1970s, it has lost it’s appeal, looking too trad and conformist; "Even as a child, I knew what I didn't want. I didn't want to wear red lipstick," singer and artist Patti Smith told the New York Times.
There seems to be a heightened jeopardy to red lipstick, which only increases as we age with fears of being too made up or the hideous phrase; ‘mutton dressed as lamb.’ And that’s where we can, and should (if we like, choice, here is key) reclaim red as a joyful act of liberation. Not just for the historical narrative but because it does seem to really rile people up, which is fun. Take this comment from ASAP Rocky back in 2013, doling out unsolicited beauty advice to women: “I feel like with the red lipstick thing it all depends on the pair of complexion. I’m just being for real. You have to be fair skinned to get away with that…”
It goes without saying that this comment is utter BS. But it shows how inextricably complex a singular beauty product can be, but also, how exciting. Red lipstick has become a universal symbol of individual and collective struggle, of freedom and self expression and much more. And yet, the definition of the “right” red has always been political. For decades, beauty adverts framed the ideal red as a blue-toned shade - a colour that flatters lighter skin - reinforcing Eurocentric beauty ideals.
That gatekeeping meant that deeper, richer reds like brick or burgundy - like kinds I’m applying above (on a very noisy train!) - that are traditionally said to flatter darker skin tones, were either sidelined as a second best, or marketed as “exotic.” Only in recent years, with the rise of inclusive shade ranges, has the spectrum of reds been reframed as expansive rather than exclusionary.
So after testing over 200 shades, I can tell you: there’s no universal red. The best one is the shade you’ll actually wear. And this is your shortcut - a simple guide to decode undertones, textures, and tones so you can find a red you truly love.
1. Do undertones really make a difference?
Yes - hugely. Knowing your undertone is like finding the cheat code to colours that instantly look great on you. Undertone isn’t about how light or deep your skin is (that’s your skin tone); it’s the subtle hue that runs beneath the surface.
Cool undertones lean pink, red, or blue. Veins on your wrist might look bluish, silver jewellery tends to pop, and you often burn before you tan.
Warm undertones lean golden, peachy, or olive. Veins can look greenish, gold jewellery usually suits best, and you’re more likely to tan easily.
Neutral undertones are a mix of both - you can wear silver or gold, and most shades sit happily on you.
2. Which textures work best and for who?
As we age, our skin and lips naturally lose moisture and we get collagen loss around the mouth, which means our lipstick might feather. That’s why the traditional advice has always been to steer clear of mattes and stick with creamier, more hydrating formulas. I get it, and yes, moisture helps. But here’s the thing: I don’t believe in ruling out an entire family of reds just because you’ve had a few birthdays. The truth is that best red lipsticks are matte and punchy crimson can look just as striking at 65 as it does at 25 - even more so tbh.
So, if you love red then my advice is to go matte. To avoid feathering, or dry lips, just prep lips well - exfoliate with a flannel or some sugar and olive oil mixed together, hydrate with balm a little while before you apply your lipstick, then blot before applying your colour. Here’s a quick low-down on lipstick types so you know:
Liquid / Ink formulas - the most drying but the brightest colours and best staying power
Best for: Those who want all-day colour with zero fuss. Modern liquid mattes or stains lock in like paint, ideal for events or long nights out. But they also pill/bobble a little when reapplied, and can feel very drying.
Watch out: They’re best applied with a precise hand or lip brush. And they might feel too drying.Matte bullet lipsticks
Best for: Those who want impact and longevity. Matte reds look polished and powerful, and stay put through meetings, drinks, or dinner. They’re less drying that liquid lipsticks, still bright but not quite as punchy.
Watch out: Lip liners are key here to keep the colour in place.Satin/ Cream lipsticks
Best for: Satin textures give rich colour with a touch of sheen that feels moveable and creamy on the lips.
Watch out: It can and will move. So the best way to apply these is to use a lipliner to line and fill in the lips to give the lipstick something to grip to. It’ll need a bit of touching up too. Not for the lazy (like moi…)
Gloss/ shine
Best for: very few people, honestly. Glossy reds bounce light beautifully but they’re difficult to maintain and keep in place. Because they’re so pigmented, when they smudge they also look quite messy. Totally fine if you want to give them a go, but I’m a trained MUA and even I can’t keep them on.Sheer / Balm-like
Best for: Everyday wear, minimalists, or anyone shy about going full red. They rarely look dramatic or bold though.3.The ultimate red lipstick edit….
Above is the Fitzpatrick scale, used by dermatologists to categorise skin tone. Pick the closest match to your skin tone out of the five options, and choose the right red for your undertone. And because beauty advice almost always starts with the fairest first, I’m flipping the script. We’re beginning at the deepest end of the spectrum.
Your new favourite red lipstick awaits….
