The Beauty Edit: Tinted moisturisers are outdated, so here’s what to use instead...
Still clinging to your old tinted moisturiser? We need to talk. Here's everything you need to find the perfect light summer base...
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“What’s your favourite tinted moisturiser?”
I get this question a lot. And honestly? I usually say none. Not because they’re terrible, but because I think the category’s a little stuck in time - and frankly there’s better out there.
When most people ask about tinted moisturisers, what they’re really after is a skin tint that feels breathable, looks natural, and has coverage that is just enough. And the truth is, we have much better options for that now.
So why the nostalgia? I think we cling to tinted moisturisers because they feel low-stakes, and care-free. They’re makeup that doesn’t feel like makeup - no brushes, no cakiness, no commitment. They’re easy and familiar. But technology has moved on, and the new wave of sheer bases gives you all of that, and so so much more.
Let’s break down the world of tinted moisturisers, light foundations, summer bases and skin tints - what they are, how they differ, and which one is right for you. Whatever your skin type, climate, or coverage comfort zone, there’s a formula that fits.
What is tinted moisturiser - and where did it come from?
Tinted moisturiser first made headlines in the mid 1990s, thanks to a now-iconic launch from French makeup artist Laura Mercier (above), known for her work with celebrity clients like Madonna. Mercier created a product that gave skin a more natural look with hydration, a whisper of colour, and a dewy finish that mimicked real skin. It was originally developed as part of the “flawless face” philosophy she championed backstage, and she launched her own tinted moisturiser in 1996 which became an instant classic!
Mercier was one of the artists who kickstarted the "no-makeup makeup" era that the 90’s became synonymous with, after the 80s and early 90s had been all about a full face of make-up. Tinted moisturiser was almost subversive at the time, but as the zero-f*cks “grunge look” became co-opted by the mainstream fashion world, a super natural base became more popular too.
Today, that concept has evolved into dozens of hybrid categories that take the idea of a sheer base to the next level. If you come out of this Substack wanting a basic tinted moisturiser - honestly I’ll be shocked. And for ease - I’ll be calling the whole category a ‘tint.’
How do you apply a tint?
Application is entirely personal, but here’s what I recommend: fingers work perfectly well, especially if you're in a hurry. Sponges tend to absorb too much product (even when damp), so I usually steer clear. My go-to is a dual-fibre brush, like this classic one from MAC. It picks up just the right amount of product and gives a beautifully natural finish. I’ve had mine for over a decade and it still performs like a dream. Pro tip: start in the centre of your face and blend outwards. It prevents product from gathering around the hairline or jaw, which can give that dreaded scream mask effect (been there…)
What shade should I pick?
Tinted products tend to be more forgiving than traditional foundation - but that doesn’t mean shade doesn’t matter. See below…
-Oily skins need to beware of oxidation: Some tints can oxidise and go darker once they mix with the oils on your skin. So if you have oily skin, bear this in mind and let a product sit for a few hours before deciding to buy it. And if you’re between shades, go for the slightly lighter one for this reason.
-Test in daylight: Store lights distort tones - and this gives you more time to think about it without the pressure to buy.
-Undertone matters: Even though it’s a light product, if your skin has strong undertones (usually yellow, golden or pink) then you’ll still need to get the right tint undertone. If that freaks you out then a CC cream may be your best shout as they often help neutralise the tone of the skin - if that’s something you’re looking for. You’re looking for the opposite of what you have, to neutralise it (except at MAC - they do the matching for you basically, so it’s sort of the opposite. If you have a warm undertone that’s the product you look for.) Again, never a requirement - we’re perfect as we are - and no one undertone is better than another.
Which one do I choose?
Just one final word; even if your tint says it has SPF, you’re not applying enough to get the full protection. So think of the SPF they contain as a bonus, not a substitute. Always use a dedicated sunscreen underneath - it’s the only way to be sure you’re actually covered.
Below is your cheat sheet starting with the least amount of of coverage (tints) and finishing with the most (light foundations.)
Skin Tints
These have the least amount of pigment of any of the tints. They don’t promise skincare; they just offer minimal coverage and a hint of colour on the skin in an ultra-natural way. If you want coverage with these, you’ll need a concealer too.
Best for: Everyone and anyone after the most natural finish.
Finish: Ultra sheer but varies between products.
Try:
Lightest finish - Chanel Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint - this feels incredible on the skin, and adds a little luminosity and a smidgen of coverage. Good for men/those who want a little colour that doesn’t look like foundation at all.
Dry skin - Lumene Invisible Illumination Instant Glow Beauty Serum - has added skincare benefits that hydrate drier skins
All skins - Glossier Skin Perfecting Tint is a pretty decent all-rounder that gives a hint of colour, a teeny bit of coverage and is hydrating.
Tinted Moisturisers (that are actually ace!)
The OG of lightweight hydration with a sheer tint. Think of it as your moisturiser with benefits: a wash of colour, moisture, usually dewy, minimal coverage.
Best for: Normal to dry skin types, everyday wear and mild climates that aren’t too humid. Oily skins/acne prone skins may find these too slick.
Finish: Light coverage - dewy finish.
Try:
All rounder - NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser is excellent and has good coverage if that’s most important to you. It can feel a little oily so is best for normal-dry skins.
Lighter finish - bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Moisturiser SPF30 is lovely and light - ideal for oilier skins
Undertone woes - Jones Road Just Enough Tinted Moisturiser is brilliant for those with undertone worries - they tell you what undertone each shade has. Also great for mature skins.
BB Cream (aka "Beauty Balm")
Originally from Korea, BB creams combine skincare benefits (hydration, SPF, antioxidants) with buildable coverage. They often have a slight blurring effect, and tend to be more on the matte/neutral side.
Best for: All skin types but particularly those who have oilier skins or who want a more natural matte-ish finish.
Finish: Medium-light coverage - neutral finish (neither matte nor dewy.)
Try:
Acne prone skin - Erborian full coverage BB Cream For Acne Prone Skin, helps give coverage but also has anti-inflammatory ingredients to help quell angry breakouts. Shade selection is limited.
All-rounder - Kosas BB Burst Tinted Moisturizer Gel Cream with Copper Peptides - light, easy to apply and great shades.
Extra coverage - Dr Jart BB Cream - lovely to wear, good coverage (similar to a light foundation), but limited shade selection - especially for any specific undertones.
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